Cramped & Crowded II: Time to Yum Cha!
We started the day by taking the MTR from Wan Chai to Sheung Wan. Had my first taste of the MTR and doing it during morning rush hour can be quite stressful. The trains were fast and frequent and commuters behaved like a stampede. Our destination was Lin Heung, an old place for the yum cha experience. Took us some time to navigate the streets. My brother was our organic GPS. And knowing how accurate GPSs are, we took the scenic route to the restaurant. Food was on the second floor. Upon arrival, a very bengis old waiter barked at us:
"Find your own seats!"
Every table was taken. We had to circle the tables looking for an opening. Felt like vultures waiting for an antelope to keel over. In the end, we tumpang at a table with an old man and two women. The 'legacy' waiters quickly dumped bowls and cups on our table and asked what tea we wanted. Sensing trouble if we hesitated, I blurted out "Ti Kuan Yin"! A few more shouts later, the waiter scooted off to get our tea. Sitting down, I observed that the interior was very noisy. Waiters in white uniforms were dancing around the tables dispensing super hot water from kettles. On the ceilings, many empty birdcages were hung, perhaps used in years past. Group after group of waiters sat down at a table in the corner having giant bowls of white rice with plates of steamed pork. The key to dim sum esperience there lies in a long piece of order chit. Whatever food you get must be stamped on it. No order chit, no food. And so, when the trolley comes, people rush up to the cart with their order chits in hand and start grabbing. Don't expect the cart to ever reach your table if you're far from the kitchen. BIL just took whatever was available. No luxury to choose.
"Pau? What pau you want? Want so many pau for what!?"
The old man who sat with us explained that the restaurant was one of the better places with fresher ingredients. However, we weren't wow-ed by the food. Tried stuff like char siew cheong fun (quite good), beef balls (with dried orange peel inside ack!), kuih melayu, lotus seed paste pau (comes with salted egg yolk inside), char siew pau, duck feet pau (wrapped with beancurd skin with prawn and pork) and layered cake (many layers of beancurd skin alternated with egg and dried orange peel). Even when leaving, we were practically thrown out.
"Please don't linger here!"
From there, we took the MTR to Central, then walked a short distance uphill to the Peak Tram. The seven minute ride was quite interesting with an incline of forty five degrees. Initially, one could see buildings sprouting up on both sides, but as we climbed, it was all greenery. Arriving at Peak Tower, one couldn't shake off the feeling Genting Highlands. The shops selling souveniers and what nots were just too similar. Going further up, we reached the observation deck where one could get a wonderful view of HK over the harbour with all its skyscrapers. Visibility was quite good and it wasn't cold or windy at all. Didn't go into Madame Tussaud's. Good enough having seen Bruce Lee and Michelle Yeoh. On the way down, I stood because there weren't any more available seats. Could really feel how steep it was!
Next up was Mong Kok. Another place full of energy and teeming with people. Walked around a bit and grabbed a cooling mango drink from Hui Lau Shan. Ended up in Lui Yan Kai, looking very much like an orderly night market. Nothing uniqe as each stall was a copy of the next. Clothes, sequined-slutwear, a-string-of-pearls-to-cover-your-beaver underwear, smartphone accessories, soft toys, counterfeit bags and some food. Similar to Petaling Street, the stalls were usually manned by immigrants. The enforcement officers were very strict, making sure that every stall did not cross the designated red border. Drizzled and rained a bit, making the experience a bit troublesome.
For dinner, we ventured back to Wan Chai. Settled for a cher chai mien shop in a secluded alley. Basically just mix and match, but the order chit was completely in Chinese. I choose clear soup noodles with kuchai flowers, stewed pig's ear and roast pork neck. An excellent choice on a cold night. On the way back, saw a bunch of old ladies offering ta siew yan services underneath a flyover. For just HKD50, you get a full package of curses and hexes to throw at your enemies. In their arsenal are clogs wrapped with paper tigers, the White Tiger. The would smack a paper effigy of your enemy while muttering their magic. All over one can idols in makeshift altars of cardboard boxes and incense. Before going home, made a short stop at the markets to buy some groceries for breakfast the next day! Ended the night drinking a bottle of cheap wine with peanuts at home. Zzz...
"Find your own seats!"
Every table was taken. We had to circle the tables looking for an opening. Felt like vultures waiting for an antelope to keel over. In the end, we tumpang at a table with an old man and two women. The 'legacy' waiters quickly dumped bowls and cups on our table and asked what tea we wanted. Sensing trouble if we hesitated, I blurted out "Ti Kuan Yin"! A few more shouts later, the waiter scooted off to get our tea. Sitting down, I observed that the interior was very noisy. Waiters in white uniforms were dancing around the tables dispensing super hot water from kettles. On the ceilings, many empty birdcages were hung, perhaps used in years past. Group after group of waiters sat down at a table in the corner having giant bowls of white rice with plates of steamed pork. The key to dim sum esperience there lies in a long piece of order chit. Whatever food you get must be stamped on it. No order chit, no food. And so, when the trolley comes, people rush up to the cart with their order chits in hand and start grabbing. Don't expect the cart to ever reach your table if you're far from the kitchen. BIL just took whatever was available. No luxury to choose.
"Pau? What pau you want? Want so many pau for what!?"
The old man who sat with us explained that the restaurant was one of the better places with fresher ingredients. However, we weren't wow-ed by the food. Tried stuff like char siew cheong fun (quite good), beef balls (with dried orange peel inside ack!), kuih melayu, lotus seed paste pau (comes with salted egg yolk inside), char siew pau, duck feet pau (wrapped with beancurd skin with prawn and pork) and layered cake (many layers of beancurd skin alternated with egg and dried orange peel). Even when leaving, we were practically thrown out.
"Please don't linger here!"
From there, we took the MTR to Central, then walked a short distance uphill to the Peak Tram. The seven minute ride was quite interesting with an incline of forty five degrees. Initially, one could see buildings sprouting up on both sides, but as we climbed, it was all greenery. Arriving at Peak Tower, one couldn't shake off the feeling Genting Highlands. The shops selling souveniers and what nots were just too similar. Going further up, we reached the observation deck where one could get a wonderful view of HK over the harbour with all its skyscrapers. Visibility was quite good and it wasn't cold or windy at all. Didn't go into Madame Tussaud's. Good enough having seen Bruce Lee and Michelle Yeoh. On the way down, I stood because there weren't any more available seats. Could really feel how steep it was!
Next up was Mong Kok. Another place full of energy and teeming with people. Walked around a bit and grabbed a cooling mango drink from Hui Lau Shan. Ended up in Lui Yan Kai, looking very much like an orderly night market. Nothing uniqe as each stall was a copy of the next. Clothes, sequined-slutwear, a-string-of-pearls-to-cover-your-beaver underwear, smartphone accessories, soft toys, counterfeit bags and some food. Similar to Petaling Street, the stalls were usually manned by immigrants. The enforcement officers were very strict, making sure that every stall did not cross the designated red border. Drizzled and rained a bit, making the experience a bit troublesome.
For dinner, we ventured back to Wan Chai. Settled for a cher chai mien shop in a secluded alley. Basically just mix and match, but the order chit was completely in Chinese. I choose clear soup noodles with kuchai flowers, stewed pig's ear and roast pork neck. An excellent choice on a cold night. On the way back, saw a bunch of old ladies offering ta siew yan services underneath a flyover. For just HKD50, you get a full package of curses and hexes to throw at your enemies. In their arsenal are clogs wrapped with paper tigers, the White Tiger. The would smack a paper effigy of your enemy while muttering their magic. All over one can idols in makeshift altars of cardboard boxes and incense. Before going home, made a short stop at the markets to buy some groceries for breakfast the next day! Ended the night drinking a bottle of cheap wine with peanuts at home. Zzz...
Comments
+Ant+
LOL. How much?
@Nick:
Yeah lo. Every day the API at least 45.
Nice photos, shame on me!
I'm sure many noticed, just that you're the only one to mention it here!